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Many low priced bead rollers will twist when making bead and must the stiffened. There are other areas where they leave some to be desired too. The hand crank for instance is awkward, if not dangerous and is often replaced with a steering wheel or, better yet, motorized. The shafts are not standard sizes (at least not for us Americans). |
The infamous HK (Harbor Freight) style bead roller.
 Disassembled |
 Square bar bent and welded around mouth -- both sides |
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 Angle iron welded on both sides on the bottom and flat bar welded on top |
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 Bushings scrounged from old Ford parts to shim the shaft for standard dies. |
Typical Bodine motor often used to power beaders -- specs to come...
Here's a typical steering wheel modification. Photo courtesy of George
Hawkins Jr.
This is how one member handled motorizing
| More information supplied by members from the archives:
Motor selection -- Use a small hp motor or it will coast past where
you want to stop because of the flywheel effect of the large armature.
I use 1/15 hp right
angle gear reduction Dayton motors on the machines that I built.
2.7 rpm or
6.8 rpm that seems slow but the 2 inch dia. die travels over 6 inches per
revolution and any faster can get out of control very easy.
The motors I use
are AC/DC universal motors and can use a sewing machine foot pedal for Gears -- Bead roller style gears are in all old style Kenmore and Whirlpool washing machines -- 1 inch each transmission on the agitator shaft. They are 2 inches center to center meshed -- works great for 2 inch dia. dies and they are tough enough to work for a long time.
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