Terry_Cowan (16K)


Shop Tips #18

By Dick Raczuk

 



MSA Articles Index
Shop Tips #1
Shop Tips #2
Shop Tips #3
Shop Tips #4
Shop Tips #5
Shop Tips #6
Shop Tips #7
Shop Tips #8
Shop Tips #9
Shop Tips #10
Shop Tips #11
Shop Tips #12
Shop Tips #13
Shop Tips #14
Shop Tips #15
Shop Tips #16
Shop Tips #17
Shop Tips #18
Shop Tips #19
Shop Tips #20
Shop Tips #21
Shop Tips #22

Storing Acids and Materials Containing Acids

Anytime I have to store acid materials, I always try to contain the product in some sort of plastic bag or bucket.

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Bag your acids, but keep your eye on them.

This also goes for lead acid car batteries (non-sealed type). This type of battery left near raw steel will attack it and soon form a nice coat of rust. Now I just leave my car batteries outside until I can dispose of them. I learned this the hard way and had to clean up all my U-bends I had stored on a shelf above the battery. I also found out that plastic bags don't last forever. I had a can of flux packaged in a sandwich bag. It has probably been in the same bag for 5 years. I never dreamed that the plastic would start to disintegrate and leak the acid onto the drawer. The really bad news was the drawers had holes in the bottoms for dividers. Yes, it leaked all the way to the bottom when one of our summer days started cooking the paste.

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One of the drawers the acid leaked through.

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Even the bag storing these adaptors broke.

So, even with a baggie, I will still put all of the acids in some sort of Tupperware box. Moral of this story, "Never trust a baggie."


No Surface Grinder?? No Problem

I recently had to remove .003 from a shim to get the proper bearing clearance. My surface grinder was in the process (3 months) of being moved so I had to come up with an accurate way of removing a small amount of metal to get the clearance I was looking for.

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The first instinct is to grab it with your fingers and start sanding. Doesn't work. First of all you fingers will get shorter and the part will not be evenly ground.

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I chucked up a piece of plastic and machined a boss to retain the shim while lapping it on my plate.

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Make sure the retaining boss is shorter than the shim.

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Next I marked the holder so while I'm lapping the shim I would rotate it to get the part even in thickness.

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Wipe the shim clean and mike it frequently. Check a few locations to be sure you are getting it even.

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I took off the .003 and the shim was ready for use.

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The sample I used was a ring, but a disc could be shaped in the same manner.


Wipe Your Chucks

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Before you install a chuck onto to a lathe or any piece of equipment, wipe it down. This could be your R8 collet or any piece of tooling about to be inserted into a holder.

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I wipe down both sides. That chip or piece of whatever could be hanging out anywhere.

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You probably do this already, but use some kind of protection for the ways and your fingers when installing your chucks. It doesn't matter how small the chuck is, just do it. The penalty for dropping one is "dinged ways" You can always tell the amount of experience a lad has by the conditioning of his equipment.


Blow Out the Dust

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Depending on what your shop conditions are like, you need to blow out your electrical equipment every so often. The frequency will depend on how much dust is observed during the "blow out." I know when I'm doing any kind of sanding or blocking of panels, no matter how hard I try, the dust is all over the place. Then of course you start up your welder and immediately the fan starts sucking dust right through the welder. Even though it's a bit of work, drop the side panel and blow out that welder. Same thing goes for hand tools. Hey, the tool you save may be your own.





-- Dick










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