Terry_Cowan (16K)


Shop Tips #20

By Dick Raczuk

 



MSA Articles Index
Shop Tips #1
Shop Tips #2
Shop Tips #3
Shop Tips #4
Shop Tips #5
Shop Tips #6
Shop Tips #7
Shop Tips #8
Shop Tips #9
Shop Tips #10
Shop Tips #11
Shop Tips #12
Shop Tips #13
Shop Tips #14
Shop Tips #15
Shop Tips #16
Shop Tips #17
Shop Tips #18
Shop Tips #19
Shop Tips #20
Shop Tips #21
Shop Tips #22

Holster for your gun

I got a little tired of looking for my blow guns. A longer bolt and acorn nut worked here. This is pretty easy and I'm sure there are different solutions if you just think about it. This one worked for me. I also have a reel mounted on a plaque that hangs up my air gages. Same principle.

tips20_holster-01.JPG

tips20_holster-02.JPG

Dry Lube

If you are cutting some heavy plate, use a some dry lube to allow the plate to slip along its cutting path. This really comes in handy when using small blades ( like 1/4 " on this project ) . I am using a 1/4" 6 tooth blade here and I had to hit some tight radius in a 1/2" alum. plate.  I coated both the table and the part. It helped. Of course a table with an air bearing would be ideal, but this is a hobby shop.  Another method is to attach smaller supports to your part so there won't be as much friction between the part and the table. They have to laid out along the cutting line so it's a bit time consuming.

tip20_drylube.JPG

Blade gets stoned

I was cutting out my windshield frames and I wanted to cut as close to the line as possible. I also didn't want to go through a lot  clean up work to get a nice finish. Filing wears me out. To cut down the amount of kerf left by a 6 tooth blade, I used a trick a woodworker passed on to me. A little stoning to the high spots on the blade helps a lot. When the teeth on the blade get set during the manufacturing process, not all of them are even. This results in that jagged edge you will see when inspecting the cut. Laying a stone down while the saw is running gets the high spots down. Just hold it gently against the sawblade while the saw is running. It will not dull the blade, but tune it up to cut a narrow slot. The object here is to just take down the high spots, not the set. Again, watch the fingers. A 6 tooth cuts fast and takes no prisoners.

tip20_bladestone.JPG

Tight corners

When faced with bandsawing a tight radius, use a hole saw or drill to cut the radius first.  It's very difficult to move a part thru the saw blade and get a true radius. When sawing up to the line, make sure you are on the correct side of the line. It's better to file to the line than open up the radius. Practice on some scrap.

tip20_tightcorners.JPG


-- Dick










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