Terry_Cowan (16K)


Shop Tips #7

By Dick Raczuk

MSA Articles Index
Shop Tips #1
Shop Tips #2
Shop Tips #3
Shop Tips #4
Shop Tips #5
Shop Tips #6
Shop Tips #7
Shop Tips #8
Shop Tips #9
Shop Tips #10
Shop Tips #11
Shop Tips #12
Shop Tips #13
Shop Tips #14
Shop Tips #15
Shop Tips #16
Shop Tips #17
Shop Tips #18
Shop Tips #19
Shop Tips #20
Shop Tips #21
Shop Tips #22

A Tip from Twizzle

For long items such as socket extension bars, ratchets, speed bars and breaker bars I cut a sheet of galvanized 1.5mm (0.060") steel to fit the inside top lid of my toolbox, I then laid them all out for the best fit on the sheet and marked the best points to hold the tools with a marker pen. Then, starting at the top left of the sheet I bolted tool clips to hold the tool I wanted there, and then inserted the tool into them. By doing this you can check out your finger clearence for grabbing the tool before you mount the next set of tool clips. Do this in sequence for each tool you want to mount on this sheet and you shouldn't have any fitting problems when it's all finished. When all done, remove the tools and mount the sheet to the inside top of your box lid firmly with at least six bolts. If you're really proud of your box layout and looks, you could paint this sheet to match the box. Once the sheet is fitted in a position you're happy with, cut a length of 3/8" tube to use as a lid prop as when all the tools are mounted it adds a fair amount of weight and the last thing you need is the lid slamming down on your fingers as you're selecting tools in the top section.

toollid_storage (20K)


A Tip from Alan Lapp

Wrapping a piece of tape around a drill makes a quick & dirty depth gage.

drill_depth (53K)

( I've used this method before. If you use a little caution, you can be pretty accurate with it. Dick )



A Tip from Terry Gortmaker

Here's a process I use when running a hole saw in material 1/8" thick or more. Get the pilot hole drilled, and just start the hole saw touching so you can see the circle. Drill a relief hole just touching the perimeter. Careful not to go outside the perimeter ( 3/16" dia. will work). This will act as a trash can for your chips to fall in. Use a slow speed and lots of lube and the hole saw will last a long time.

chiphole (33K)



A Tip from Jacin Barnes

Here's a SHOP TIP I've been wanting to share, but keep forgetting. Don't know if it's OLD HAT or not - but I just came up with it - so it's NEW to me. I am sorta extra conscious about eye safety - and we all know there are times when we are grinding and just can't position things without the chips flying directly at our faces. Yeah I'm always wearing my safety glasses but they are far from fool proof escpecially when grinding (die grinder) - I have at times also worn my full face shield in addition to safety glasses if the situation allows it. Yeah, I LOOK awfully goofy! But here is my latest thought - I had the wife grab a set of swimmers goggles - these mold right to your face and will easily fit under a full shield OR also easily be used WITH a respirator. If this is OLD HAT my apologies - I still think it's neat.



Tapping Multiple Holes

Every once in a while you will be faced with tapping multiple holes. Unlike through holes where if your off a bit, you just drill a bigger hole or file it to fit, the tapped hole stays where it is. Here's what I like to do when I am confronted with this .

  1. Align the part in position, then transfer punch, drill and tap the first hole.


  2. tappingholes001 (44K)

  3. Install the first fastener and realign the part to position. Make sure the fastener is good and tight.


  4. tappingholes002 (44K)

  5. Use a transfer punch to locate the next series of holes. If you don't have a transfer punch, pick a drill that just fits into the hole. Drill just deep enough to center up your tap drill. After that it's a good idea to use a smaller drill to start things off. Finish with the tap drill.
  6. Chamfer the holes. (A little detail often overlooked that gives the job a professional look.)
  7. Tap away using a good tap lube.


Lights, Cords and Hoses

I just don't like the looks of a 4' or 8' florescent light fixture hanging over my bench. I also don't like walking on air hose. This simple gadget eliminates both problems. The picture has the air hose hanging, but it hangs up out of the way on the arm. The double florescent lamp is a Home Depot product ($20 plus the lamps) It puts out plenty of light. I used some scrap alum tube but steel will work just fine. What I like about it is I can swing the lamp or hose to the area of the bench I'm working on. A little clip will hang up the hose. Swings out of the way when you need it too. A double actuating arm might be even better.


light_and_hose_arm (67K)

light_and_hose_arm2 (66K)


Tape Station

I got tired of looking for the disappearing tapes. This is my solution, a "tape station". Just a 90 degree bend in a piece of metal (slips under the top of the tool box) and you just built it. You won't believe how much time this will save you. It's faster than looking for them in a drawer.

measuretapestation (37K)

Please Don't Laugh

It is a scientific fact that Mozart is calming to infants. They get a little upset, you play a little Mozart and they calm down. Works on kids and works on adults. If you don't want to listen to this, you can hang up now. The next time you are faced with a tedious task, especially one you don't particularly enjoy, play a little Mozart. Don't like Mozart, play some classical you like. I realize most people don't enjoy classical music, but the key is not to listen to it but "feel its presence". I'm telling you, it works. I'm not saying you need to do this all your waking hours, but next time you have to drill 50 holes, paint a door, or whatever, try it.

Sonata, in C Major K.545, Movement 1 audio (1K)




Dick Raczuk




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